Earlier today as I worked by my computer in my room, sunlight reminiscient of early May flowed through the room. I could hear the coos of the birds out my window and out on the lawn faint conversations sprinkled with giggling coming from the English family sharing the lodge with us. I checked the waterhole periodically from my window and finally the elephants came in for their daily drink. They arrive nearly as predictable as Old Faithful. As we stood and watched them we could hear their purrs and stomachs digesting. Birds squawked warning sounds behind them and impala scattered into the brush as they took in their warning. The sand and gravel crushed under the weight of the elephants gingerly walking the perimeter of the watering hole. As they settled in and assured those hiding in the brush that all was clear, more animals appeared to get their much needed refreshment.
As we watched these elephants leave satisfied and the last glimpse of their tails blended in with the brush, Joyce and I went to the hide (an underground tunnel leading to a wide, 2" high hole at ground level). As we watched some various antelope come in we could hear the distinct sound of more trees cracking and coming closer and closer. Another lone elephant appeared. He approached the watering hole with little concern and then walked the perimeter of the pond. His jaunt put him in front of our faces. We could have put our hand out and he literally would have stepped on them (had we been so foolish). We saw the wrinkles in his skin...his toenails...some old scars. He found his preferred spot and took in as much water as would fit in his trunk. He would bring it to his mouth and purposely splash himself in refreshment. He stopped several more places around the hole before he also slowly backed away and disappeared into the bushveld.
For high tea (lunch) the lodge owner surprised me with a birthday cake a day early since we are leaving tomorrow. The food here, as we have experienced this entire trip, is beyond amazing. After a quick bite we went back to our room to fetch our cameras, plenty of coats, gloves and scarves. We chose our seats on the safari vehicle and settled in under our blankets and provided hot water bottles. (These bottles are also placed in our beds before bed and are truly appreciated!!)
This afternoon only Jamie and I went out on the game drive. The other 2 PH's and Don left for the day to go hunting. The drive started a little slow with mostly zebra sightings. Mid-trip our ranger, David, got a call about a wild dog sighting. They had made a kill and wouldn't be there long. Wild dog sightings are very rare and though David has grown up in South Africa he has had yet to see one. Needless to say, this call made David quite excited. He asked permission to "step it up a notch" and we happily agreed. We began making our way to the sighting, taking a shortcut via a path following the high wires. These roads are not paved and at times really don't appear to be roads at all. The more updates he got, the more filled with anticipation David became and the heavier his foot became on the gas pedal. By this point I had fully secured all my electronics so that I had both hand free to firmly grasp the anti-gravity bar in front of me. My tush was feeling the crisp air below me as we were frequently airborne and my leopard scarf was blowing in the breeze beside me. Jamie and I fell into each other with each twist in the road. David yelled back if we were all okay yet and we just laughed and told him to carry on.
We arrived at the sight with the dogs nearly completed with their meal but still present. David was bouncing off the seat in excitement and we were for him. We had seen dogs last year in Zim but since we don't live here we can't fully appreciate their rarity. We sat with them as long as we could until the next vehicle arrived and we had to move on due to their 3 vehicle limit at each sighting.
We started making our way back to the lodge, satisfied with our drive to this point. A few miles later we had to stop since some bull elies were having a discussion in the middle of the road. An older bull was assuring a young bull that he didn't know who he was messing with. They stood having a face off while they interlocked trunks and pushed against each other. The sun was beginning to set and the dust off their feet became smoke around their silhouettes. We listened and watched, wondering what the outcome would be. We were quite close but still at a reasonably safe distance; but depending on how daring the young bull was going to get we knew it could get ugly in a hurry. The young bull finally appeared to be giving in and turned his back briefly. The old bull gave him his last retort of a tusk in the butt and he started walking away. The three of us looked at each other in agreement that we were pleased with our newest experience. David put his hand on the ignition to start the vehicle when the old bull looked right at us and began making his way to our truck. He was too close for us to leave so we sat as still as possible while David talked to him calmly to assure him we were no threat. The bull slowly but deliberately kept closing the feet from him to us. I had a momentary flashback of an overturned vehicle earlier this year by tourists who weren't respecting a bull's personal space. This bull was showing no signs of aggression whatsoever, however, and was merely curious as to who had witnessed his recent match with the young bull. By now the bull was pressed up against the vehicle and turned to face us. His trunk became his eyes and he began examining this sight before him, inch by inch. With his body inches from our vehicle he started investigating the hood, then the passenger door and he made his way to Jamie (to my left). Having the multiple close encounters on foot with elies last year helped Jamie to know his intent and he allowed (as if he had a choice) the bull to fully take his gloved hand in his trunk. Jamie said he was grasping it firmly but only curiously and not attempting to hurt him in any way. I think I might have stopped breathing for a moment as I looked at the eyes of this wild creature who was now a part of our group. Satisfied with his investigation, he released Jamie's hand from his grasp, gave us a final look over and inch by inch made his way back into the bushveld.
The day was not yet over! We came back to a traditional boma supper held outside as the final part of my birthday celebration. As we made our way down the torch lit sidewalk it totally
reminded me of Survivor. (I hoped we wouldn't be voted out after our earlier experience.) We entered a sandy circular enclosure with
cement walls and ceiling of stars. There was a fire pit as our host in front of
us and behind the lantern adorned table were several fire stands. The walls were
decorated with African masks. The fire stands gave off flecks of ash toward our
table but gave off welcomed heat. Off to the right we could see the dimly lit
watering hole. The air was very crisp and all that we could hear was the
crackle of the fire as we sat and took in the ambience of the setting. Black
iron pots held our various courses of supper along tables in the sand behind
us. A separate outdoor grill crackled with the game and chicken that were
cooking. Staff dressed in crisp white uniforms waited behind the grill to serve
us, speaking their native language to each other as they laughed and enjoyed
their own camaraderie. Our meal began with broccoli soup and beer bread. While
many of the other guests enjoyed red wine, I opted for sparkling grape juice (it still
bubbled in a fancy glass so really it was the same). The main course was green
beans, squash, mealie pap with sauce, corn on the cob, chicken kabobs, lamb
chops and boerewors (sausage). For dessert we had malva, a traditional African dessert (a kind of warm pudding over a cake). Midway through the meal some things came to the watering
hole.
After we enjoyed this scrumptious meal,
someone approached me to tell me they had something else planned. In a few
moments a chorus of people came in singing and dancing native songs. We had no
idea what they were singing but it was obvious their hearts were in it and they
were really enjoying themselves. I could feel the unity they had and considered
how this group was no different than us…we all just want to belong and have a place in this
world. We feel comfortable with what we know. Their songs were calming and
peaceful and the ambience was almost more than a person could take in. What a birthday
present!! It was truly an unforgettable birthday celebration. Africa never ceases to amaze us with the magic God has placed here and blessed us to experience.
0 comments:
Post a Comment